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Mount Moran - CMC Route (III 5.5)
9/4/05 - 9/6/05
 
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(1) Alpine glow bathed Teewinot, Grand Teton, and Mount Owen as we prepared for the canoe approach to Mount Moran (photo by Barry Raven).
(2) Alan and Eric paddle across String Lake.
(3) Mount Moran looms big as we paddle across Leigh Lake (photo by Barry Raven).
(4) The 3000' climb to CMC Camp from Leigh Lake was a real grunt (photo by Alan Ellis).
(5) The West Horn, Falling Ice Glacier, and the East Horn towered over us as we ascended toward our high camp.
(6) We were just able to squeeze our tents into relatively rock-free spaces at the upper CMC Camp.
(7) We left camp for our summit bid at 03:45 (photo by Alan Ellis).
(8) It turns out we started a bit early because when we got to the top of Drizzlepuss it was still pitch dark. We had to wait on the summit for about 45 minutes for the sunrise and enough light to make the tricky downclimb/rappel into the notch.
(9) Eric downclimbs toward the notch. Barry (red jacket) is standing at the rappel station.
(10) Me rapping into the notch (photo by Barry Raven).
(11) Alpine glow on the CMC Route.
(12) Me traversing below Unsoeld's Needle (photo by Barry Raven).
(13) Alan and Eric passing Unsoeld's Needle.
(14) Barry runs out of protection and belays me up to him (photo by Alan Ellis).
(15) Me leading the second pitch (photo by Alan Ellis).
(16) Alan leads the second pitch.
(17) Barry follows across the easy slabs before entering the gully.
(18) Me leading the third pitch up into the gully (photo by Barry Raven).
(19) Eric climbs to climber's right of the gully.
(20) Barry leads the fifth and final pitch out of the gully and onto easier terrain.
(21) Barry scrambles across easy slabs at the top of the CMC Route. Teewinot and Grand Teton can be seen in the distance.
(22) Looking down at Alan and Eric as they begin the last bit of scrambling to the large summit plateau.
(23) Eric, Barry, Alan, and me on the summit of Mount Moran.
(24) Looking down at the upper section of CMC Route from atop the Black Dike.
(25) Beginning the downclimb of the CMC Route (photo by Alan Ellis).
(26) Eric scrambles across a trickier section of the downclimb.
(27) Barry performs the first rappel.
(28) Alan on the second rappel.
(29) Alan follows Eric's lead out of the notch and up Drizzlepuss.
(30) Barry packs up the rope after the climb out of the notch and up Drizzlepuss. At this point all the difficulties were behind us - all that remained was the hike back down to camp.
(31) Hiking back down to camp from Drizzlepuss. It ended up taking us sixteen hours camp-to-camp.
(32) Me close to the end of our descent from CMC Camp down to the canoes (photo by Alan Ellis).

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